By Yurovskiy Kirill, Master Watchmaker
As a professional watch repairer with over 25 years of experience working on some of the finest timepieces in the world, I have developed a keen eye for what separates a quality watch from one that is simply average or poor craftsmanship. While brand name certainly plays a role, there are many other crucial factors that go into determining a watch’s build quality and longevity.
In this guide, I’ll share my expert tips on what to look for when choosing a quality wrist watch that will keep ticking for years—or even decades—to come. From the importance of the movement to evaluating case materials and everything in between, this is your master class on selecting a timepiece built to last.
The Heart of the Watch: The Movement
More than any other component, the movement is the heart that makes a quality watch truly beat. It’s the engine that powers the precision timekeeping you expect from a well-made timepiece. There are different types of watch movements, but generally speaking, the higher the quality, the better.
Mechanical movements are considered the premier option as they rely on finely-tuned metal components to operate, with no batteries required. Among mechanical movements, manually-wound calibers demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship while automatic (or self-winding) versions add convenience.
Within the realm of mechanical movements, look for respected names like ETA from Swiss manufacturers. Japanese companies like Miyota, haparing, and Seiko also produce workhorse automatic movements found in many quality watches.
Quartz movements, powered by a battery, are another option that sacrifice the tradition of mechanics for unbeatable accuracy. Upscale quartz pieces may utilize Swiss or Japanese-made movements.
When evaluating any watch’s caliber, research the brand’s heritage, power reserve duration, accuracy ratings, anti-shock protection, and quality of components and assembly. Solid metal bridges and jeweled pivots are hallmarks of higher-end movements built to tighter tolerances for durability.
The Materials: Case, Crystal, and Bracelet
Beyond the internal movement, the materials that construct a watch’s exterior are critical indicators of quality. This includes the case that houses the movement, the crystal that protects the dial, and the bracelet or strap.
Case Materials
For optimum quality, you’ll want a watch case manufactured from robust metal, with stainless steel being the most common and affordable option. Precious metals like 18k gold add incredible luster and prestige but at a premium price. Platinum cases are hugely prestigious and virtually scratch-proof but also quite costly.
Look for cases crafted from a single solid block of metal versus base metals coated in plating, which can wear quickly. The individual components should fit tightly together with no obvious gaps, and the lugs (where bracelets/straps attach) should be solidly integrated into the case.
High-quality cases will also feature sharply-carved edges, intricate finishing (brushed,polished, etc.), and tight tolerances that minimize gaps with the caseback. Rotating bezels should turn with crisp,120-click movements without wobbling.
Crystal
Crystals protect the watch face from scratches, cracks, and daily wear. Acrylic was commonly used in vintage watches and can be polished, but it’s soft and prone to scratching. For affordable modern watches, look for hardened minerals like K1 crystal.
For true quality, seek out scratch-resistant synthetic sapphire crystal, which rates 9 out of 10 on the Mohs hardness mineral scale. Sapphire also provides superb clarity to appreciate detailed dials below. Some ultra high-end pieces may even utilize virtually scratchproof diamond crystals.
Straps and Bracelets
Metal bracelets and leather straps both have their merits when it comes to quality. For bracelets, stainless steel or precious metals like gold and platinum are ideal choices. Individual links should fit snugly using solid pins or screws with minimal stretching over time.
Well-made bracelets also feature a robust clasp that closes firmly and features safety innards to prevent accidental openings. Micro-adjustments are another nice-to-have feature for getting the perfect fit.
Quality leather straps should be crafted from premium hides and exhibit even thickness, tight stitching, minimal defects, and smooth finishing at the lugs where they attach to the case. Many prefer the natural patina that develops as leather ages versus synthetic alternatives.
Other Factors in Quality Watchmaking
While the movement and materials represent the core tenets of quality, there are several other key factors that discerning collectors assess:
Water Resistance
Even a dress watch should provide some degree of water resistance, whether splashing in the sink or caught in a rain shower. Look for pieces displaying water resistance ratings between 30-100 meters at minimum.
Premium watches bound for water sports or diving pursuits should carry 200m/660ft or greater water resistance with a robust screw-down crown and caseback. Rotating bezels, helium escape valves, and visible gaskets throughout the case are other indicators of serious water protection.
Attention to Detail
Beyond the specs, true quality resides in the subtle yet important details that manufacturers implement in their watches. This includes the intricate finishing found on cases, dials, hands, and movements. Examples include circular graining, sunburst finishing, heat-blued metalwork, and immaculate polishing.
On the dial side, appreciate components like subtly recessed subdials, crisp printing and markers, anti-reflective coatings, and more. All aspects should exhibit precise execution down to the smallest detail.
Brand Heritage and Reputation
While not a definitive marker of quality, a brand’s heritage plays a major role in earning enthusiasts’ respect and signaling attention to detail in manufacturing. Long-established Swiss, German, and Japanese houses like Rolex, Omega, IWC, Seiko, and Grand Seiko have built sterling reputations over decades or even centuries of quality watchmaking traditions.
A new or lesser-known microbrand may also produce outstanding quality but do your research by handling samples in person, scrutinizing components and finishing, and referencing testimonials from respected collectors and journalists.
Ultimately, the true mark of a quality timepiece lies in the ownership experience and its ability to provide years or even generations of reliable service with proper care. By prioritizing the factors of impeccably engineered movements, carefully crafted premium materials, and high attention to detail, you’ll be better equipped to purchase a watch that will serve you proudly for many years to come.
I hope these insights from my decades as a professional watchmaker prove educational for any prospective buyer seeking to add an heirloom-quality timepiece to their collection. With patience, research, and reliance on your own senses in examining potential purchases, you’ll develop the expertise to identify a true quality watch built to last.